If Tokyo is Conan Edogawa’s city, Osaka belongs to Heiji Hattori.
Calling Osaka Detective Conan’s second city is hardly an exaggeration. Heiji, Conan’s closest detective rival and friend, is from Osaka, as is Kazuha Toyama. Osaka Castle, the Osaka Prefectural Police headquarters, Nakanoshima, and other familiar cityscapes have appeared throughout their stories.
There is also a nice parallel with the real Japan. Osaka has long been regarded as Japan’s second great city after Tokyo. In Conan, Tokyo has Conan and Osaka has Heiji. In real life, the two cities have their own identities, cultures, and rivalries too.
For a Conan fan, that makes Osaka much more than another stop on a Japan itinerary.
Start at Yomiuri Telecasting Corporation
Near Osaka Castle stands Yomiuri Telecasting Corporation, the broadcaster closely associated with Detective Conan. Outside the building, you can find bronze statues of Conan and the Detective Boys, making this an easy first stop for fans.
It is a small detail, but that is exactly what makes exploring Japan through anime fun. You are standing outside a real television station in Osaka, with Conan and his friends waiting out front.
From there, Osaka Castle is close by.
Osaka Castle Through a Conan Fan’s Eyes
Osaka Castle is one of the defining images of the city. For Conan fans, though, it can feel strangely familiar.
Heiji and Kazuha’s stories have repeatedly brought Conan to Osaka, and locations around Osaka Castle have appeared in the series and films. Once you know the connection, walking around the castle feels a little different.
Tokyo has Conan. Osaka has Heiji.
And Osaka has another reason to stay for a while: the food.
Osaka, Japan’s City of Food
Osaka has been known for centuries as a city of food. Takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu and countless other local dishes have become famous across Japan.
But eating them in Osaka is still different.
Even for Japanese visitors, Osaka’s food culture has a personality of its own. It is casual, energetic, generous and deeply connected to the city itself.
One place I visited was Kushikatsu Shirotaya in Namba. The restaurant was opened by Giant Shirota, a legendary former competitive eating champion in Japan.
The atmosphere is that of a casual Japanese izakaya, but the kushikatsu itself is surprisingly delicate. The coating is thin and crisp, the frying feels light rather than greasy, and the original sauce is refreshing enough that you immediately want another skewer.
The service was friendly and fast too.
Perhaps it makes sense that a former eating champion knows how to make food you can keep eating.
A Tiny Sushi Counter in Nishitenma
Osaka also has another side to its food culture.
Sushidokoro Sumire is a tiny sushi restaurant tucked away in Nishitenma, around the back of the U.S. Consulate General. With only around six counter seats, it has the atmosphere of an old school sushi restaurant you might once have found in the traditional entertainment districts of Osaka.
There is nothing flashy about it.
Instead, the focus is entirely on the sushi. Carefully aged fish, ingredients at their seasonal peak, and pieces given an extra touch of preparation before reaching the counter.
The presentation is understated, but every piece reveals confident craftsmanship.
That was what made this place memorable. It does not try to impress you before you take the first bite. The quality becomes obvious when you eat.
For anyone looking for a small, intimate sushi counter and serious Japanese craftsmanship, this was one of the highlights of the trip.
Sleep Above Conan’s Osaka
For the final stop, I stayed at Patina Osaka, overlooking Osaka Castle.
The location alone is spectacular. From the hotel, you can look down over one of the most recognizable landmarks in Osaka and a place that will immediately feel familiar to many Conan fans.
But the hotel itself was just as impressive.
The rooms are beautiful, the hospitality is excellent, and the international staff make it particularly comfortable for overseas travelers. English is readily available, and the multilingual environment removes much of the friction that some visitors can experience at hotels in Japan.
The room service was excellent, and breakfast was another highlight. The buffet incorporates elements of Osaka’s food culture while still feeling polished and distinctly luxurious.
Then you look out of the window and there is Osaka Castle.
After spending the day walking through Heiji’s city, it is a pretty special way to end the night.
One Bite of Osaka
Come to Osaka because you saw it in Detective Conan, and you may leave remembering something completely different.
A bronze Conan outside a television studio. Osaka Castle from Heiji’s hometown. Freshly fried kushikatsu in Namba. Six seats at a quiet sushi counter. Osaka Castle glowing outside your hotel window.
Anime gives you the reason to look.
The real Osaka gives you the reason to stay.
