Day 4: Kumamoto Travel Guide: The Home of ONE PIECE

Continue south from Saga, and the next stop on our Kyushu manga journey is Kumamoto.

Kumamoto is one of Kyushu’s most fascinating destinations, combining history, spectacular natural scenery, and distinctive local food.

But for manga fans, there is another important reason to visit.

Kumamoto is the home prefecture of Eiichiro Oda, the creator of ONE PIECE.

This time, we will explore Kumamoto through ONE PIECE while also discovering some of the history, scenery, and food that make the prefecture worth visiting on its own.

If you want to see the full Kyushu journey, please read: From Tokyo to Kyushu: The Ultimate Manga Creator Journey Through Japan.

How to Get to Kumamoto

Kumamoto is easy to reach by train.

From Saga, the journey takes approximately 1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes using limited express trains and the Kyushu Shinkansen.

If you are traveling directly from Fukuoka, the Kyushu Shinkansen from Hakata Station to Kumamoto Station takes approximately 32 to 50 minutes, depending on the train.

Kumamoto Station is one of the major stops on the Kyushu Shinkansen, making the city an excellent base for traveling around the region.

However, if you plan to visit all ten Straw Hat Pirate statues introduced below, renting a car is highly recommended.

The statues are spread across Kumamoto Prefecture, including areas around Aso, so trying to see them all using only public transportation can be difficult.

Kumamoto Castle

One of the first places to visit is Kumamoto Castle.

Together with Osaka Castle and Nagoya Castle, Kumamoto Castle is often regarded as one of Japan’s three great castles.

One of its most famous defensive features is its steep stone walls, known as musha gaeshi.

The lower sections rise relatively gently before becoming dramatically steeper toward the top, making them extremely difficult for attacking soldiers to climb.

The castle also incorporated numerous defensive features and was designed to withstand a prolonged siege.

Kumamoto Castle suffered extensive damage during the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, including serious damage to its buildings and stone walls.

Following major restoration work, the main keep reopened to the public in 2021, although the long term restoration of the entire castle complex continues today.

Kumamoto Castle is therefore more than one of Japan’s great historic landmarks. It has also become an important symbol of Kumamoto’s recovery from the earthquakes.

ONE PIECE and the Straw Hat Statues

Kumamoto has a special connection with ONE PIECE because its creator, Eiichiro Oda, was born in Kumamoto Prefecture.

Following the devastating 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, Oda worked with Kumamoto Prefecture to support the region’s recovery.

One of the most visible results is a series of life size statues representing all ten members of the Straw Hat Pirates, installed across the prefecture.

The easiest place to begin is the Luffy statue at the Kumamoto Prefectural Government Office.

Installed in 2018, Luffy is relatively easy to reach from central Kumamoto, making this the best choice for travelers who only have a few hours in the city.

If you have more time, however, try finding the entire crew.

Luffy is at the Kumamoto Prefectural Government Office, Chopper at Kumamoto City Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Sanji in Mashiki, Brook in Mifune, Zoro in Ozu, Nami in Nishihara, Robin in Minamiaso, Usopp at Aso Station, Franky at Takamori Station, and Jinbe in Uto.

Because the statues are spread across a large part of the prefecture, a rental car is the most practical way to visit all ten.

One Bite recommends allowing at least two days and one night if you want to complete the entire tour.

If your schedule is limited, there is no need to see every statue. Pick Luffy and a few of your favorite characters instead.

Part of the fun is that searching for the Straw Hats takes you beyond Kumamoto City.

Several statues are located around the Aso region, famous for its enormous caldera, mountains, and wide grasslands. With additional time, you can also explore other parts of Kumamoto, including the islands and coastal scenery of Amakusa.

For the exact locations, addresses, parking information, and an efficient route covering all ten statues, see our separate Complete Straw Hat Statue Tour.

ONE PIECE Mugiwara Store Kumamoto

After exploring Kumamoto, ONE PIECE fans have one more stop to make.

The official ONE PIECE Mugiwara Store Kumamoto is located on the sixth floor of AMU PLAZA KUMAMOTO.

The shopping complex is directly connected to Kumamoto Station, making the store particularly convenient if you want to buy ONE PIECE merchandise before boarding the Shinkansen.

And if Kumamoto is not part of your Japan itinerary, you can still visit a Mugiwara Store in Tokyo.

There are locations in popular areas including Shibuya, Harajuku, Ikebukuro, and Tokyo Station, making them easy additions to a Tokyo anime and manga trip.

What to Eat in Kumamoto

Basashi

One of Kumamoto’s most famous local foods is basashi, or raw horse meat.

Eating raw horse meat may sound unusual to many international travelers, but it has a long history as a local specialty in Kumamoto.

Today, basashi can also be found at izakaya and restaurants in other parts of Japan.

The meat has relatively little of the strong smell some visitors might expect, and its mild flavor and texture have made it popular with many Japanese people.

If you want to try it in Kumamoto, one recommendation is Uma Sakura, a restaurant specializing in horse meat.

It is a good place to experience not only basashi but several different styles of horse meat cuisine.

Kumamoto Ramen

Another Kumamoto specialty you should not miss is Kumamoto ramen.

Hakata ramen from neighboring Fukuoka may be better known internationally, but Kumamoto has developed its own distinctive style of tonkotsu ramen.

One of its defining characteristics is garlic.

Roasted garlic and fragrant garlic oil, often including mayu, give the pork bone broth a deeper aroma and richer flavor.

If you have already tried Hakata ramen in Fukuoka, Kumamoto is the perfect place to discover how different two bowls of Kyushu tonkotsu ramen can be.

One Bite especially recommends Tengaiten.

Its Kumamoto Station location is inside Higo Yokamon Market, making it extremely convenient for travelers. You can stop there soon after arriving in Kumamoto or have one final bowl before catching your train.

Unlike several famous Kumamoto ramen chains, Tengaiten does not have a restaurant in Tokyo.

For us, this is one of those bowls that makes a trip to Kumamoto worthwhile on its own.

If You Want Kumamoto Ramen in Tokyo

If you cannot make it to Kumamoto, try Keika Ramen in Tokyo.

Founded in Kumamoto, Keika is one of the long established names in Kumamoto ramen and operates several restaurants in Tokyo, including locations in Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Ikebukuro.

It is an easy way to experience Kumamoto style ramen without leaving Tokyo.

But if you eventually make the journey to Kumamoto, be sure to try the ramen there as well.